An Englishman in Latvia
A storytelling podcast hosted by Alan Anstead, an Englishman who first lived in Latvia as a diplomat from 1996 to 1999 and returned in 2022. Each episode blends Latvian history, culture and tourism with his own personal anecdotes from both periods of his life there. He reflects on how the country changed between its early post-independence years and the present day. The show is aimed at anyone curious about Latvia and the everyday experiences of a foreigner who made it home.
Epizodes
On Latvian perfume and cosmetics
A tiny bottle of perfume opens a story of Rīga industry, Soviet scarcity and changing ideas of femininity. This episode follows Dzintars from its nineteenth-century roots through its Soviet heyday, explores the cult fragrance Koķete, and asks what MÁDARA's rise reveals about Latvia’s modern cosmetics industry. Thanks for listening!
On the Riga moped
There's a sound that, if you grew up in Soviet Latvia, you'd recognise instantly: a buzzy little two-stroke engine. That sound belonged to the Riga moped. We tell the history of this moped and how it gave millions across the Soviet Union affordable mobility; we hear Jana's experience riding one; and we visit a wonderful place where you can find a collection of Riga mopeds. Thanks fo
On amber
The story of amber, the fossil that isn't quite a rock, isn't quite a jewel, yet has shaped trade routes, folklore, craft guilds, and Latvian identity for thousands of years. We'll explore how it was formed, how it travelled from these shores to the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs, how it ended up pinned to the shoulder of traditional Latvian costumes, and how to buy the real thing witho
On Rīga at 825
Rīga is 825 years old. Join me as we join the big party! We also tell the history of Rīga, not as a chronological listing, but through legends, stories and tales. Thanks for listening!
On Iebiezinātais Piens
There is an object in Latvian cuisine that has outlasted empires and is still in supermarket aisles today. It is small. It is round. And it is very, very sweet. It is a tin of condensed milk. Iebiezinātais piens is nostalgia in a can.We will trace the history of this product, explore its use in Latvian cuisine and make one of Latvia's most celebrated cakes. Thanks for listening!
On lighthouses
Latvia's maritime history told through stories about its lighthouses. From Hanseatic merchants, through Courland's golden age, to the dark years when the Soviet Union turned the coastline into a military fortress and to today. Three lighthouses highlighted and a road trip! Thanks for listening!
On the deportations
This is one of the most difficult and important episodes I have recorded: the deportation of over 57,000 Latvians by the Soviet Russian regime in 1941 and 1949. Regarded as genocide and a crime against humanity by the European Court of Human Rights. I tell the story of what happened and how it happened. Thanks for listening!
On Valdemārpils
The story of a small town in Latvia with a big name. It was renamed after a legendary Latvian ideologue who used to teach there, Krišjānis Valdemārs. It has an award-winning 500-year-old linden tree, a crumbling Baltic German manor house, and a lovely lake. Join me as we visit Valdemārpils. Thanks for listening!
On Riga Black Balsam
A 270-year-old balm that is regarded as the national drink of Latvia. Sold in dark clay bottles. Some people love it, some don't. We explore the story and legends surrounding Riga Black Balsam, and hold a tasting with friends. Thanks for listening!
On Ludza - Latvia's oldest town
Ludza is the oldest town in Latvia - a country that has known occupation and catastrophe many times over. It is a town that was once more than half Jewish, whose synagogue survived a fire and a genocide yet is still standing. It is a town whose medieval castle tells a story of crusading ambition and ultimate ruin, and whose lakes still carry the legend of the bewitched princess waiting somewhere b
On Rīga's metro
This is the story of a metro system for Rīga that was planned for decades, almost built in Soviet times, but was stopped by an environmental protest movement in 1988 that changed the course of an entire nation, leading to Latvia regaining its independence. The metro that never was. Thanks for listening!
On skeleton
From Victorian Brits plunging down icy chutes in St Moritz, and a Latvian family transforming a Soviet-era track into an Olympic medal factory, to a British gold medallist embracing his Latvian coach at the bottom of the Milan-Cortina Olympic run, skeleton tells a story of speed, risk, and unlikely bonds. This is that British-Latvian story. Thanks for listening!
On the media
The history of the media in Latvia is a fascinating story. From the simple beginnings of a Latvian-language newspaper in 1822, to strict censorship during the Soviet Russian occupation, to the media's role in the independence movement. And now today, with a fragmented on and offline Latvian media scene and Russian media in exile. Join me as we explore this. Thanks for listening!
On Jelgava
This is the fascinating story of Jelgava, a city in Latvia that was once the capital of the Duchy of Courland for centuries, was destroyed during the Second World War, rebuilt as an industrial powerhouse under Soviet occupation, and is now transformed into a vibrant university city. Thanks for listening!
On gherkins
If there is one vegetable I associate with Latvia, it is the gherkin. This is the story of what gherkins truly are, why Latvians pickle anything that remains still long enough, a landfill that has become a greenhouse for cucumbers, and where you can savour the finest gherkins in Rīga for yourself. Thanks for listening!
On the barricades
This is the story of how Latvians stopped Soviet Russian special forces in January 1991 by building barricades from concrete blocks, trucks, and tractors to protect the institutions of its democracy in Rīga. It is a story of heroism by ordinary Latvians and journalists, with lessons for the world today. Thanks for listening!
On Latvian symbols
We explore the ancient symbols that have guided Latvia for a thousand years. These aren't just decorative motifs: they're a living alphabet of belief, carved into Late Stone Age bone tools, woven into the fabric of daily life, and now finding new voice in contemporary Latvian identity. Thanks for listening!
On Tobago
The story of how Latvia, then the Duchy of Courland, had a colony in the Caribbean. The island of Tobago. We travel back to the 17th century and explore how Latvia (Courland) became the world's smallest nation to have a colony. We look for remnants of that empire in present-day Tobago and Latvia. Thanks for listening!
On Mark Rothko
A journey to Daugavpils, Latvia, to learn about the birthplace of the Abstract Expressionist artist Mark Rothko and to find out whether the city and his childhood in its then bustling but fearful Jewish streets influenced his art. Join me as we visit the Rothko Museum and explore Daugavpils. Thanks for listening!
On Independence Day
The 18th of November is celebrated in Latvia as Independence Day. I'll guide you through the four parts of this gripping story. First, the dramatic declaration of independence on 18 November 1918. Second, the war that ensued. Third, the Soviet Russian occupation of Latvia from 1940 until independence was regained in 1991. And finally, how Latvians celebrate Independence Day today, with my mem
On Mārtiņš Rītiņš, father of modern Latvian cuisine
This is the story of Mārtiņš Rītiņš - a story that takes us from a post-war refugee camp to cooking for queens and presidents, from the industrial towns of England to the heart of Rīga, and from a life lived partly in the shadows to one of remarkable openness and authenticity. It is the story of a British-born Latvian chef, restaurateur, culinary TV presenter and author. A great man who became kno
On Rīga's Soviet microdistricts
Rīga's pre-fabricated apartment blocks built during the Soviet occupation represent a significant urban planning project. The 13 microdistricts on the city outskirts were not merely housing solutions but comprehensive attempts to create new forms of socialist urban living. Join me as we delve into the history of these microdistricts, find out what it was like to live there during the Soviet e
On Miķeļdiena
Miķeļdiena is Latvia’s ancient harvest festival, full of folklore tales like the Jumis deity-catching ceremony and the spirit world of Veļu laiks, when ancestors walk among the living. In this episode, we explore traditions and how Miķeļdiena is celebrated in modern-day Latvia. Thanks for listening!
On Līgatne
This is the story of a town founded by the owners of a paper mill 200 years ago, who built a thriving community for their workers before profits. It is also about 333 caves dug by people, as well as a secret Soviet command centre bunker built underneath the town. And the most famous bear in Latvia. Welcome to Līgatne! Thanks for listening!
On the Latvija minibus
The RAF Latvija was a Soviet-era minibus. Externally, it looks remarkably similar to the iconic Volkswagen Type 2 van. The story of its production offers us an insight into manufacturing during the Soviet era. The Latvija became a symbol of communal mobility, serving as a marshrutka - a minibus on a set route, or used as an unofficial taxi, and its drivers and passengers share many poignant experi
On beer
Latvia is a country of beer brewing and drinking. It has a rich history of beer-related tales, dating back to medieval times, through the economic development of Latvia by German nobility, and then the dark times under Soviet occupation. Latvia now boasts a vibrant craft beer brewing scene, with over 300 different craft beers available in Rīga alone. Join me as we go on a beer tour of Latvia! Than
On Sigulda
Sigulda is a medieval town in Latvia that has been named the “Switzerland of Vidzeme”. It boasts a rich historical tapestry, blending medieval history, romantic legends, and natural beauty. Sigulda features a triangle of three castles, all strategically positioned to face each other. We tell the tragic medieval romance story of the Rose of Turaida. We also tell the tale of the Sphinx ghost who loo
On fish
Latvia has a remarkably long coastline for its size. Therefore, seafaring, fishing and eating fish are important parts of Latvian life and culture. We step back in time and discover the history of Latvia’s fishing industry, with many good tales. We will also taste some typical Latvian fish, mostly smoked in the way Latvians love it, which the EU now wants to ban. I will suggest a fish driving tour
On Rundāle Palace
One of Europe's most extraordinary baroque palaces is just 80 kilometres south of Rīga. Rundāle Palace, often referred to as the "Versailles of Latvia", represents more than architectural grandeur, as it embodies a fascinating story of political intrigue, artistic brilliance, and unwavering determination. The palace is deeply connected to one man: Ernst Johann von Biron. Join me as
On Harold Trevenen Hall
What makes for a thrilling biography? Success in business, while simultaneously working as a British spy during the Russian Empire period in Latvia, and then during the Russian Revolution. Leading a triple life as a businessman, athlete and intelligence agent. Being named the father of Latvian football for introducing the sport to the country. And finally being tortured to death by the German Gest
On Jūrmala
Jūrmala is Latvia’s premier resort town. Originally a series of fishing villages by the sea just a short distance from Rīga, it transformed from a 19th-century Baltic spa destination to the Soviet Union’s most exclusive holiday retreat. It is still a wonderful place to relax. Join me as we explore Jūrmala's past and present. Thanks for listening!
On Sir Isaiah Berlin
Sir Isaiah Berlin was one of the 20th century’s most influential British philosophers and political theorists. He was born in 1909 in Rīga, Latvia, and his childhood had a lasting influence on his life and academic work. We explore Sir Isaiah’s connections to Rīga with some interesting, relatively unknown stories. Thanks for listening!
On Rīga's art nouveau architecture
Rīga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world, with around 800 buildings constructed primarily between 1904-1914 during an economic boom under the British Mayor of Rīga, George Armitstead. They have survived two world wars and the Soviet occupation. Join me as we explore the history of these remarkable buildings and their master architects. Thanks for listening!
On Cēsis
Nestled in the heart of Latvia’s Gauja National Park, the small but historically significant town of Cēsis offers a wealth of fascinating stories spanning over eight centuries. With its medieval castle ruins, cobblestone streets, and rich cultural heritage, Cēsis blends history, architecture, legends, and living traditions.Join me as we visit and explore Cēsis. Thanks for listening!
On chocolate
Latvia has a rich tradition of chocolate making. A history spanning over 150 years. We will look at and taste the products of two very different chocolatiers - Laima, which was the leading chocolate maker in the Soviet Union and still is hugely popular, and Pūre, a newer entrepreneurial company from a small town in western Latvia that produces the most amazing truffles. Join me on a culinary journ
On a tale of two cities
Two trips to two cities - Vilnius in Lithuania and Tartu in Estonia. In Vilnius, you'll discover a city where ancient history meets bohemian creativity, where mermaids cast spells from riverbanks, and where an entire neighbourhood declared itself an independent republic. Tartu is dominated by the oldest university in the Baltics and presents a uniquely preserved cultural landscape that has ev
On Meteņi, Spring
Spring is almost here in Latvia. On the first Sunday of March, I went to the Old Town of Rīga to mark the Latvian celebration of Meteņi. This Spring awakening festival marks the transition from winter to spring, blending timeless traditions with community revelry. Meteņi has rich historical origins, and is still recognised today in contemporary celebrations with good food and drink. Join me as we
On the Baltic Way
The Baltic Way was the event that helped secure the three Baltic States’ independence from Russia 35 years ago. The idea was simple - a chain of people linking the three capital cities of Vilnius in Lithuania, Riga in Latvia and Tallinn in Estonia. It was a significant act of protest, striving for freedom against an oppressor. We will look at how it was planned and hear stories from participants.
On Russians
In a polarising world, this podcast episode will cover a sensitive and difficult topic: Russians in Latvia. Since February 2022, when Russia again attacked Ukraine, the question of the allegiance of Latvian-resident Russians has been a main political topic. Latvian laws have been tightened on residency, cross-border business and travel to and from Russia. You would need the rigour of a distinguish
On the Latvian animation, Flow
The Latvian animation Flow is a ground-breaking independent film that has disrupted high-profile, big-budget international productions with its visual storytelling techniques about survival, trust and collaboration. It has already won a Golden Globe and is up for two BAFTAs and two Oscars. It is a source of pride to most Latvians. Let me tell you more about this uniquely Latvian film. Thanks for l
On Mežaparks
Mežaparks is a suburb of Rīga, Latvia's capital. It is a beautiful area of villas, a forest park, and a zoo. The Englishman George Armitstead, while Mayor of Rīga, created it in 1901 as the first Garden City in the world. Join me as we explore this delightful neighbourhood of Rīga and learn of its fascinating history. Walk with me through the park, as people have done for over 100 years. Join
On Sir Stephen Tallents
Sir Stephen Tallents was a distinguished British civil servant and a trailblazer in public relations. I focus on his work in Latvia between 1919 - 1920. Due to his skill and determination, he assisted Latvia and the other newly independent Baltic States to achieve peace and prosperity for 20 years. His story is fascinating. Join me as we learn more about the man and how he operated, like how he
On music
Latvia has a rich music scene, from classical music to the internationally acclaimed Song and Dance Festival, ancient folklore dainas, and a thriving popular music culture. In 2000, Latvia even came third in the Eurovision Song Contest! Not bad for a country of 1.8 million people.In this episode, we will explore the folklore, classical and popular music of Latvia. I will tell a few stories from th
On public transport
For a visitor to Latvia, there is a massive choice of public transport. From trains, buses, smaller mini-buses, trolleybuses, trams, and coaches. There are also a few taxis. A few of these forms of public transport are brand-new. Many give you a feel for life during the Soviet occupation. There was even a song written about my favourite tram line! Let’s take a deep dive into public transport in La
On sport
Latvia is a nation that loves sport. it has achieved outstanding sporting success. We will examine that success. We will look at the most popular sports in Latvia, some Latvian sporting heroes, and share some of the proud glory from 2023’s success in ice hockey and basketball. Above all, I wanted to discover why this small country was so good at certain sports. Thanks for listening!
On the Suiti
The Suiti are a 400-year-old ethnic Latvian group. They are Catholic people in the centre of the Kurzeme region in western Latvia, surrounded by Lutherans. They preserved their culture over the years by never marrying someone from a different ethnic group or religion. This has resulted in the Suiti developing distinct traditions. The Suiti are creative people with fantastic fabric designs. Their
On the Latvian who made pigs fly
Anatole ‘Tony’ Lapine lived a dream to be a great car designer. He was chief designer at Porsche for nearly 20 years, one of only four chief designers at the car maker since it was founded exactly 75 years ago. He had a hand in shaping some of the most impressive and iconic sports cars ever. Despite being a refugee from war-torn Latvia, his story is a remarkable one of ambition backed up by hard w
On Kuldīga
On a bright weekend at the end of September, I went to Kuldīga. The town was buzzing with people, strolling the cobbled streets, sitting at cafes, walking down to the waterfall. The small electric tourist buses were full. Why? Kuldīga had been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list a few weeks beforehand. In tourism terms, that is a huge thing.We will look at Kuldīga's journey to gain this d
On Ķemeri
Ķemeri is a former resort in Latvia. It has seen many highs, like being regarded as an outstanding spa of the Russian Empire, rebuilt to be one of the finest resorts in the Baltics during Latvia’s first independence, and later developed into a sanatorium for the Soviet elite during the Russian occupation. To the lows of being destroyed during the World Wars or from neglect. When Latvia regained in
On an artist, Edgars Valdmanis
In the 1990s, while working as a diplomat in Latvia, I bought three paintings by the artist Edgars Valdmanis. I found the first one in a gallery in Rīga’s old town. It is a landscape with trees in the pointillism impressionist style. Soon, I had my second and third paintings from this artist. The third one, a winter scene complimenting my spring and summer paintings, won an award in Latvia. Fast f
On film and animation
Latvia has a rich history in film and animation making. It is also re-emerging as a significant industry. Latvia is the choice location for many European and UK films. I will take you on a tour of Latvia’s Cinevilla studio. We will explore the history of Latvian film and animation and discover a few fascinating characters. We will visit the Latvian Film Museum in Riga and talk to the Head of the
On Latgale
Latgale is Latvia's easternmost region and the country's poorest. It is a region of contrasts, with some distinct cultural differences from the rest of Latvia. For example, while most of Latvia is Lutheran, Latgale is predominantly Roman Catholic. The region’s history helps explain the religious differences in Latgale and its ethnic diversity. I spoke to Aldis Pušpurs to find out more ab
On St. Saviour's
St. Saviour’s Church is in the old town of Rīga. It is an Anglican parish church, part of the Church of England. It was founded on British soil, shipped to Latvia in 1857, and built with British red bricks. It has a fascinating history, from being made by British businessmen in Rīga for wayward British sailors, to being closed down as a church during the Soviet Russian occupation and becoming a st
On the Livs
The Livonians, or Livs, are an indigenous ethnic group in Latvia. They were one of the first nations to settle in what is now modern-day Latvia. They speak a different language, yet only 30 people can now converse in it fluently. Few people outside of Latvia, and many people living in Latvia, are unaware of the Livonians. We will get to know this wonderful ethnic group. I speak to the Chairperson
On Song and Dance
The Latvian Song and Dance Festival is probably the most important Latvian cultural event. Held every five years and started 150 years ago, 40,560 singers and dancers and a 500,000 audience joined events in Riga in July 2023. We look at this phenomenon and explore interesting aspects of the festival like the food served to participants, how environmentally friendly it is, what the police were up
On Jāņi, midsummer
Midsummer is the biggest annual celebration in Latvia. Bigger than Christmas or Easter. As with many Latvian traditions, it is pagan in origin. It involves oak leaf or flower garlands, a special cheese, plenty of beer, fire and singing, and witches! I’ll tell you about the origins of this celebration. I’ll share my experience of participating in Jāņi. An Englishman’s guide on how to enjoy Jāņi. Th
On George Armitstead, Mayor of Riga
George Armitstead was an engineer, entrepreneur and the fourth Mayor of Rīga. He is fondly remembered in Latvia for turning the city into a modern European capital. The city flourished under his management between 1901 -12. He was also British. I want to share his interesting story with you. We will go on a hunt around Rīga for memorials dedicated to him. We will also visit Jaunmoku, 70 km from R
On wetland bogs
Approximately 10% of Latvian territory is peatland, and 5% is wetland mires - bogs or fens. These mires act as carbon sinks and play a massive role in helping to reduce the impact of climate change. We explore two bogs and one wetland lake with fens to find out more about these beautiful wetland mires. Thanks for listening!
On the coronation
On 6 May 2023, King Charles III and Queen Camilla were crowned King and Queen of the United Kingdom and Commonwealth in a coronation. How was this event marked in Latvia, and what does it mean for British-Latvian relations? I report from the British Ambassador’s coronation celebration at Latvia’s National Library. I make the official coronation dish at home in Rīga, albeit with a Latvian twist. We
On fashion and knitting
Latvia has a long tradition in fashion, from stories from ancient times of knitted mitts and folk costumes to Latvia being the centre of fashion in the Soviet Union during the Riga Fashion House era, and to the present day - holding the only fashion week in the Baltics. In this episode, we will explore folklore and traditions, and end with a wonderfully rich discussion with a former top Latvian m
On Easter
Latvia is a country full of traditions. Easter is no exception. We will explore the origins and practice of colouring eggs, swinging, and beating each other with willow catkins, for a slightly different take on typical European Easter celebrations. Plus, superstitions and stories of ghosts and witches. Thanks for listening!
On beaches and forests
Latvia’s natural landscape is characterised by its forests and seascape. Nearly 53% of Latvia is forested and it has 504 km of sandy coastline. I tell a few stories about these natural features and recommend my favourite beaches and forests to visit. I also interview a hunter about forest management and conservation. Thanks for listening!
On language and integration
In this episode I explore the connection between the Latvian language and integration. We look at the challenges that Latvia has faced in integrating its Soviet Russian population and implementing a one official language policy. I interview my Latvian language teacher to find out who is learning Latvian. I also interview my Brazilian friend who loves Latvia and intends to gain Latvian citizenship.
Podcast trailer
What is it like to live and travel in Latvia? An Englishman in Latvia is my story-telling and reportage podcast. Please give it a listen on your favourite podcast platform.Thanks for listening!
On health, wealth and education
A country's health, wealth and education levels are three of the most important socioeconomic indicators. Latvia has done much to improve these factors over the last two decades. In this episode, I will give my observations on the present state of these indicators in Latvia, with some stories to illustrate my views and the occasional comparison with my home country of Britain. I interviewed a
On food and drink
In the episode, I explore the cuisine of Latvia. I visit the largest market in Europe. I tell the stories of two Latvian chefs. We taste a few Latvian food and drink products, like Birzī sap, smoked fish and Getlini tomatoes - that are grown using waste. I also countdown through my list of ten important dishes in Latvian cuisine. Labu apetiti! Thanks for listening!
On driving in Latvia
In this episode, I describe what it is like to drive in Latvia. We explore why Latvia has a high road accident mortality rate and what the authorities are doing to address that. I recommend some great drives and three campsites to stay at. I also visited the Riga Motor Museum and saw its excellent collection of Soviet-era vehicles. Thanks for listening!
On animals, birds and plants
In this episode, I talk about the animals, birds and plants that to me characterise Latvia. I will tell their stories. Things that have either amazed or amused me. Two animals, two birds and two plants.We look at cats, and their historical significance in Latvia; lizards, the Latvian animal of the year for 2023; the thrush nightingale, bird of the year 2023; storks and the folklore around them, bu
On New Year's Eve
In this episode, I explore how Latvians celebrate New Year's Eve. I tell stories connected to New Year's Eve from present-day Latvia, the Latvia I worked in as a diplomat in the 1990s, and also stories from living in Moscow in the 1980s. We look at fireworks, drink and food. Also some traditions from the 18th and 20th Centuries. And, of course, how Latvians will celebrate this New Year&a
On castles and invaders
Over its history, the territory of present-day Latvia has been occupied or settled on by people from many foreign countries. This podcast tells the story of these past invaders and the castles, and other monuments, that they built. I visit the Occupation Museum in Riga. I tell the story of the Minox spy camera. I tell the tales of two castles, including a ghostly visitor and the possible Latvian o
On Christmas
It is December, minus 10 degrees Celsius in Riga and snow lies on the ground. Christmas is coming! In this episode I visit the Christmas market in Riga. I explore Latvian Christmas traditions, like the nine things you need to eat on Christmas Eve, how trees are decorated, and the ceremony around giving presents. Thanks for listening!
On memories of living and working in Latvia as a diplomat in the 1990s
In this episode, I reflect on what it was like to live and work in Latvia as a diplomat in the 1990s. I look at some of the issues on regaining independence. The changes that were happening in shopping habits, in the restaurant scene, in culture and popular music. In sports, in the economy and in crime. I also share experiences of being a diplomat visiting a condensed milk processing factory to at
